Stoney’s Plumbing · New Home Plumbing Guide
Moving into a new home in Loudoun County should feel like a fresh start, but the first months often bring plumbing surprises. A brand-new house in Ashburn, Brambleton, Aldie or Leesburg can have construction debris in faucet aerators, a toilet that will not stop running, high water pressure, a water heater set too hot or too cold, a dry trap that lets sewer smell into the basement, or a fitting that starts to drip once the house is lived in. A resale home can hide old repairs, a tired water heater or items from the inspection report that never got fixed. This guide covers new home plumbing issues in Loudoun County after move-in, how to tell a small adjustment from a real problem, a first-week checklist, what each common issue usually costs to fix, how to handle builder walk-through items and how to set the home up for its first winter. Stoney’s Plumbing is a veteran-owned residential plumber at 574 Rockbridge Dr SE, Leesburg, VA 20175, and we answer calls 24/7.
The most common new home plumbing issues after move-in are running or weak-flushing toilets, slow drains from construction debris, low flow from clogged aerators, water pressure that is too high, small leaks at sink supply lines and drain connections, water heaters set at the wrong temperature, sewer smell from dry floor drain traps and hose bibs left vulnerable to freezing. As educational ranges, a toilet repair often runs about $150 to $400, a small fixture or supply line leak about $150 to $450, drain clearing about $150 to $450, a pressure reducing valve about $350 to $900 and a thermal expansion tank about $250 to $600. These are general planning figures, not quotes.
Many first-year issues are simple adjustments, but finding them early keeps a small drip from becoming a stained ceiling.
Local context: Loudoun County has some of the fastest-growing neighborhoods in Virginia, with new single-family homes and townhomes going up from Leesburg to Ashburn, Brambleton, Aldie, South Riding and Lansdowne, alongside older resale homes in town and in western villages. Most homes here use public water and sewer from Loudoun Water or the Town of Leesburg, while many rural properties rely on wells and septic. Call Stoney’s Plumbing at (703) 794-5592 or find Stoney’s Plumbing on Google Maps.
Quick answer: New homes often sit with little water use during construction and sale, then suddenly see full daily use. That change exposes loose connections, debris, settings that were never adjusted and drains that were never fully tested.
A house that has just been built has had its plumbing pressure-tested and inspected, but it has rarely been lived in. Inspectors confirm that pipes hold pressure and drains are sloped and vented. They do not run four showers in a row, a dishwasher, two loads of laundry and a garbage disposal on the same morning. The first weeks of real use are the first real stress test the system gets.
During construction, drywall dust, grout, caulk, bits of PEX, solder flux, thread tape and sand can find their way into supply lines and drains. Fixtures are installed late in the build, often by different crews, and supply lines and drain connections may be snugged only enough to pass a quick check. Homes also settle a little during the first year as framing dries out, which can shift a drain joint or a toilet flange slightly.
A resale home has a different story. It may have sat empty for weeks before closing, which lets traps dry out and lets rubber parts in toilets and faucets stiffen. Previous owners may have made do-it-yourself repairs, turned off a fixture shutoff that now sticks, or lived with a problem so long they stopped noticing it. A home inspection catches a lot, but it is a visual snapshot from a few hours on one day.
The good news is that most first-year problems are small. Knowing what to look for in the first week, and knowing which signs need a plumber, keeps the move-in season calm.
Quick answer: In the first week, find the main shutoff, run every fixture, flush every toilet, check under every sink, test the water pressure, confirm the water heater setting, pour water into floor drains and look at the ceiling below each bathroom.
An hour spent walking the house with a flashlight and a towel can catch most move-in plumbing issues before they cause damage. Do it once in the first week and again after a month of normal use.
Write down anything odd with the date. If you have a newly built home, that list becomes your builder walk-through list. If you bought a resale home, it becomes the first page of your plumbing file. Our homeowner plumbing checkup article covers a deeper annual version of this walk.
Quick answer: In most Loudoun County homes the main shutoff is in the basement or utility room where the water line enters, often near the water heater or a pressure reducing valve. Each sink and toilet should also have its own small shutoff valve.
The main shutoff is the single most useful thing to know in a new house. In newer homes with basements, it is usually on the wall closest to the street, where the water line comes through the foundation. In slab-on-grade townhomes, it may be in a utility closet, a garage or under the stairs. Many newer homes have a quarter-turn ball valve with a lever handle. Older homes may have a round gate valve that takes several turns.
There is also a curb shutoff near the meter at the street, but that valve belongs to the water utility in most cases and usually needs a special key. Homeowners should rely on the shutoff inside the house.
Each sink, toilet and appliance should have a fixture stop. Turn each one gently a quarter turn and back to make sure it moves. In a new home these are usually fine. In a resale home, an old multi-turn stop that has not moved in years may weep or refuse to close, and it is better to find that now than during a leak.
Put a tag on the main shutoff and take a photo for your phone. If the valve is hidden behind a finished wall or boxes, clear a path to it. If it will not close fully, have it replaced before you need it. Loudoun Water’s page on caring for household pipes also recommends knowing this valve well.
Quick answer: Many Loudoun County homes have a pressure reducing valve where the water line enters. If it is missing, set too high or not working, pressure above about 80 psi can stress fixtures, supply lines and appliances. A gauge on an outdoor faucet shows where yours sits.
Water pressure from the public system varies by neighborhood and elevation. Some new subdivisions sit low relative to water storage, and street pressure can be well above what household plumbing likes. That is why many homes have a pressure reducing valve, often called a PRV, near the main shutoff. It lowers street pressure to a steadier level for the house.
A pressure gauge costs little at a hardware store and screws onto an outdoor faucet or the washing machine spigot. Readings between about 50 and 70 psi are comfortable for most homes. Readings that climb above 80 psi, or that jump up at night when neighborhood demand drops, point to a PRV that needs adjustment or replacement.
Signs of high pressure include toilets that run briefly on their own, faucets that spray hard when opened, banging pipes when valves close, relief valve drips at the water heater and appliance hoses that fail early. In a new home, high pressure is also one reason a supply line connection that was only snug may start to weep.
Low pressure has different causes, including clogged aerators, a partly closed valve, a PRV set too low or an issue with the service line. Our article on adjusting or replacing a PRV and our article on weak water pressure go into each in more depth. As an educational range, PRV adjustment is a small service call and replacement often runs about $350 to $900. These are general planning figures, not quotes.
Quick answer: Weak or uneven flow at one faucet in a new home is often caused by debris caught in the aerator or cartridge screen. Unscrewing and rinsing the aerator usually fixes it. Debris in a shower valve or toilet fill valve may need a plumber.
When a new water system is first turned on, small particles travel with the water until they hit the first screen they meet. That is usually the faucet aerator, the little screen at the tip of the spout. One faucet with weak or spraying flow while others are fine is a classic sign.
Most aerators unscrew by hand or with a cloth-wrapped pair of pliers. Rinse out the screen, look for bits of plastic, sand or mineral, and screw it back on. Pull-down kitchen faucets often have a screen at the hose connection under the sink as well. Shower heads have a small screen at the inlet that can be cleaned the same way.
Debris can also lodge in a toilet fill valve and keep it from shutting off, or in a single-handle shower cartridge and cause uneven temperature or a drip. Those parts can be cleaned or replaced. If you notice the same problem at several fixtures, there may be more debris in the lines, and flushing the system at the water heater and the fixtures is worth doing.
In a resale home, flaky white or tan particles at aerators may be mineral scale or pieces of a failing dip tube inside the water heater. If you see that, have the water heater checked.
Quick answer: Running toilets, weak flushes, slow refills and toilets that rock on the floor are among the most common new home complaints. Most are fixed by adjusting the fill valve and flapper, cleaning debris, or resetting the toilet on a new wax ring.
Toilets are installed near the end of construction and are often adjusted only enough to pass a final check. In a resale home, flappers and fill valves may have aged while the house sat empty. Either way, toilets are near the top of most move-in lists.
A toilet that hisses or refills every so often without being flushed is losing water past the flapper or overflow tube. The fix is usually adjusting the water level, cleaning or replacing the flapper or adjusting the chain. A drop of food coloring in the tank shows whether water leaks into the bowl. The EPA’s simple leak checks for toilets and faucets walk through this test.
A low water level in the tank, a flapper that closes too soon or a partial clog in the trapway can cause weak flushes. New toilets sometimes ship with the water level set low. A drywall chip, a bottle cap or a toy dropped during the move can also lodge in the trap.
A toilet that moves when you sit on it can break the wax seal and leak under the floor without showing much on the surface. Tightening the bolts alone may crack the base. The right fix is usually to pull the toilet, check the flange, replace the wax ring and reset it with shims if the floor is uneven.
Our article on running and leaking toilets covers these repairs in more depth. As an educational range, most toilet repairs run about $150 to $400, and resetting a toilet with a new seal often falls in the same range. These are general planning figures, not quotes.
Quick answer: Slow drains in a brand-new home are often caused by construction debris, drywall mud, grout or packaging in the drain or trap. In a resale home, hair, soap buildup and grease are more likely. One slow drain is usually a local clog; several slow drains at once point to the main line.
Workers rinse buckets and tools in sinks and tubs during construction more often than anyone would like. Joint compound, thinset and grout harden in traps and lines and slowly narrow them. Small plastic caps, tape and labels from fixture packaging can also end up in drains. The first heavy use after move-in brings these problems to the surface.
Start with the obvious. Pull the sink stopper and clean it. Check the tub drain for a construction plug or a cover that was never removed. Remove and clean the P-trap under a bathroom sink if you are comfortable doing so. Avoid harsh chemical drain openers, which can damage new finishes and do little against hardened grout.
If more than one fixture drains slowly, if a toilet gurgles when the washer drains or if water backs up into a basement shower or floor drain, the issue is likely in the main drain or the building sewer. That needs a plumber with the right cable and often a camera. In new construction, a camera sometimes finds debris, a sag or a joint issue that should be on the builder’s list.
Our drain clearing article for Leesburg explains the options. As an educational range, clearing a single fixture drain often runs about $150 to $450 and a main line clearing about $250 to $700. These are general planning figures, not quotes.
Quick answer: Drips at sink supply lines, shutoff valves, trap slip joints, dishwasher connections and shower valves are common in the first months. Most can be tightened or resealed, but leaks inside walls or ceilings need prompt attention to limit damage.
Modern homes in Loudoun County are usually plumbed with PEX supply pipe, which uses crimp, clamp or expansion fittings, along with plastic drain pipe. These systems are reliable, but the connections at fixtures are where problems tend to start. Compression nuts on shutoff valves, slip nuts on sink traps and braided supply lines are all made up by hand at the end of a job.
Check under each sink with a dry paper towel. Wipe each connection and look for dampness. A trap slip nut that weeps when the sink drains can often be tightened by hand. A drip at a compression fitting on a shutoff may need a gentle snug with a wrench, but overtightening can crack plastic parts, so stop if it does not respond.
Leaks you cannot see are more serious. A brown ring on a ceiling under a bathroom, a soft spot in drywall, a musty smell in a closet next to a shower or water on the basement floor below a kitchen all need investigation. In new homes, the shower valve, tub drain and overflow, and the toilet seal are common sources.
A water meter test can confirm a hidden leak. Turn off all water use, note the meter reading or watch the leak indicator, and check again after an hour. Movement with nothing running means water is going somewhere. Our article on finding hidden leaks explains how leaks are traced without opening more wall than needed.
Quick answer: New water heaters are often set at the factory default, which may be too hot or too cool for your household. Around 120 degrees Fahrenheit is a common setting. Also check for a drain pan, a relief valve discharge pipe and an expansion tank if the home has a closed system.
Most new homes in the area have a 50-gallon gas or electric tank, a heat pump water heater or a tankless unit. Each has its own controls. Gas tanks have a dial on the gas valve. Electric tanks have thermostats behind access panels that should only be adjusted with the power off. Heat pump and tankless units usually have a digital display.
Around 120 degrees is a common setting that balances comfort, energy use and scald risk. Households with very young children or older adults may want to stay at or below that. If showers run out of hot water quickly, the tank may be undersized for your family, set too low or have an element that is not working.
While you are there, check three things. First, a drain pan under the tank, especially if the water heater is in a finished area or attic. Second, a discharge pipe from the temperature and pressure relief valve that runs down toward the floor or a drain. Third, a small expansion tank on the cold line if the home has a pressure reducing valve or a check valve at the meter. Without one, pressure can build when water heats and cause the relief valve to drip.
In a resale home, find the date on the label. Tank water heaters in this area commonly last about 8 to 12 years. A tank in that range is worth planning around. Our article on fixing or replacing a heater helps with that decision, and our tankless installation article covers on-demand units. As an educational range, an expansion tank often runs about $250 to $600 installed and a tank flush about $100 to $250. These are general planning figures, not quotes.
Quick answer: In larger new homes, a long wait for hot water at a far bathroom is usually caused by the distance from the water heater, not a defect. A recirculation system, a point-of-use heater or simply a better-placed heater can shorten the wait.
Many newer Loudoun County homes are large, with the water heater in a basement corner and the primary bathroom two floors up on the far side of the house. Every time you open the hot tap, the cooled water sitting in that long pipe has to run out before hot water arrives. In a big house that can take a minute or more and waste a gallon or two each time.
Low-flow fixtures make the wait feel longer because less water moves through the pipe each second. Tankless water heaters can add a few seconds while the burner fires. None of this means anything is broken.
Several options help. A recirculation pump moves water through the hot line back to the heater so hot water reaches the fixture sooner. Some homes already have a dedicated return line; others can use a crossover valve under the farthest sink. Timers and on-demand buttons keep energy use down. A small point-of-use heater under a distant sink is another option for a single fixture.
If hot water takes a long time at every fixture, even ones close to the heater, or if water never gets fully hot, the issue may be the heater setting, a failed element, a mixing valve set too low or a crossed connection somewhere in the plumbing. As an educational range, adding a recirculation pump often runs about $500 to $1,500 depending on the home. These are general planning figures, not quotes.
Quick answer: A bang when a faucet or appliance valve closes is water hammer, often made worse by high pressure. Rattling may be loose pipe straps. Humming can come from a PRV or a toilet fill valve. Most noises have simple fixes.
New homes are quieter than old ones in many ways, but plumbing noise is still a common first-year complaint. Each sound points to a different cause.
Water hammer happens when fast-moving water stops suddenly, usually when a washing machine, dishwasher or ice maker valve snaps shut. The shock travels through the pipe and makes it jump. High water pressure makes it worse. Lowering pressure, adding small water hammer arrestors near the appliance and securing loose pipes usually solve it.
PEX expands and contracts as hot water flows through it. If it is strapped too tightly or rubs against framing, it can tick or creak as the house heats up. Loose pipes in a basement ceiling can also rattle. Adding or adjusting straps quiets them.
A hum near the main shutoff may come from a PRV that is wearing or set oddly. A whistle from a toilet usually comes from a worn fill valve. A high-pitched sound at a faucet may mean a loose washer or a partly closed stop.
Pipe noise is not always harmless. Repeated hammer can loosen fittings over time, so it is worth fixing rather than ignoring.
Quick answer: Sewer smell in a new or newly purchased home is most often caused by a dry trap in a basement floor drain, an unused shower or a rough-in that was never capped well. Pouring water into the drain usually fixes it. Lasting smells may point to a vent or seal issue.
Every drain has a trap, a bend that holds water and blocks sewer gas. When a drain is not used for weeks, that water evaporates and the gas comes through. Basement floor drains, guest showers, laundry standpipes and utility sinks are the usual suspects, especially in a house that sat empty before closing.
Pour a gallon of water into each floor drain and run water at any fixture that has not been used. If the smell fades within a day, a dry trap was the cause. Adding a small amount of mineral oil on top of the water in a floor drain slows evaporation. Some homes have trap primers that keep floor drains wet automatically.
In new homes with an unfinished basement, the bathroom rough-in is a common source. Those capped drain stubs in the floor should be sealed tight. A loose test cap or a missing plug lets sewer gas in.
If the smell continues after traps are filled, other causes include a toilet with a failed wax seal, a cracked or loose vent pipe in the attic, a vent that was never connected or a drain line issue. A smoke test can find the source. Our laundry sewer odor article covers smells around the washer, which have a few extra causes.
Quick answer: Many new Loudoun County homes with basements have a sump pit. Find it, make sure the pump is plugged in, test it by pouring water in the pit and check that the discharge pipe carries water away from the house.
A sump pump collects groundwater from drain tile around the foundation and pumps it outside. In new subdivisions where soil has been graded and compacted, groundwater patterns are still settling, and some homes run their sump more than expected during the first wet season.
Test the pump soon after move-in. Lift the lid, pour a bucket of water into the pit and watch the float rise and the pump start. It should empty the pit and shut off. If it does not start, check that it is plugged into a working outlet, ideally a ground-fault outlet that has not tripped.
Outside, find where the discharge pipe ends. Water should exit well away from the foundation and not onto a neighbor’s yard or a walkway that will freeze. Builders sometimes leave a short temporary discharge that needs extending.
Consider a battery backup or water alarm if your basement is finished or will be. Storms that cut power often bring the heaviest rain. Our basement flooding prevention article covers pump options and backups, and the Ready.gov flood safety page has general preparation steps. As an educational range, replacing a standard sump pump often runs about $500 to $1,500 and adding a battery backup about $600 to $1,800. These are general planning figures, not quotes.
Quick answer: Many new homes include capped drain and vent rough-ins in the basement for a future bathroom. Before you finish the basement, confirm what was roughed in, where it sits and whether it needs an ejector pump, and plan permits.
Builders in Loudoun County often rough in a basement bathroom so buyers can finish it later. That usually means a toilet drain, a sink drain and sometimes a shower drain stubbed through the slab, with a vent pipe capped nearby. Supply lines are typically not run until the space is finished.
Before you plan a layout, have the rough-in checked. Measure where the toilet drain sits relative to the walls, confirm the drain connects to the main below the slab and check whether the basement drains by gravity or needs a sewage ejector pump. Homes where the sewer line leaves above the basement floor need an ejector for any basement fixtures.
Moving a rough-in means cutting the slab, which adds cost. A layout that uses the existing locations is usually the most affordable. Think about where a shower, vanity and toilet will fit, and whether a wet bar or laundry might go in later too.
Finishing a basement bathroom in Loudoun County generally requires a permit and inspections. Plan that early so walls are not closed before the rough plumbing is inspected. Our bathroom fixture and shower article covers fixture choices that hold up well.
Quick answer: Most new homes have frost-free outdoor faucets, but they still burst if a hose is left attached in freezing weather. Before the first hard freeze, disconnect every hose and, in older homes, shut the interior valve and drain the line.
Frost-free hose bibs, often called sillcocks, place the actual valve inside the heated wall. When you close the handle, the water in the outside part drains out. That works only if the water can escape. A hose left attached traps water, which freezes, expands and splits the pipe inside the wall. The leak often does not show until the next time you open the faucet in spring.
In your first fall, find every outdoor faucet, including ones on decks, in garages and on the side of the house. Disconnect hoses and store them. In resale homes with older non-frost-free faucets, find the interior shutoff, close it and open the outside faucet to drain the line.
Loudoun County winters bring regular hard freezes and the occasional deep cold snap. Pipes in garages, crawlspaces, unheated bonus rooms and exterior walls are at the highest risk. The Baltimore/Washington forecast office posts cold warnings that are a good signal to take extra steps.
If a hose bib leaks inside the wall when you first open it in spring, shut the water off and call a plumber. As an educational range, replacing a frost-free hose bib often runs about $200 to $500 depending on access. These are general planning figures, not quotes.
Quick answer: Washers, dishwashers, refrigerators with ice makers and garbage disposals are often hooked up during the move by delivery crews. Check each connection for drips, use braided steel supply hoses and make sure the dishwasher drain has a high loop or air gap.
Move-in week is when appliances get delivered, connected and started for the first time, often in a hurry. Many plumbing leaks in the first months come from these hookups rather than the house’s plumbing itself.
Check each appliance after its first few cycles and again a week later. A small drip behind a refrigerator or under a dishwasher can damage flooring for months before it shows. Our sink, disposal and dishwasher article and our washer drain and leak article go deeper on each room.
Call Stoney’s Plumbing at (703) 794-5592. We are a veteran-owned local plumber in Leesburg, and we answer calls 24/7. We can check your shutoff, pressure, water heater, toilets and drains, fix the small move-in issues and explain anything that should go on a builder list or a long-term plan, with the scope and price before work begins.
Quick answer: White spots on glasses, crusty shower heads and scale in kettles are signs of hard water. Public water in parts of Loudoun County is moderately hard. Your utility’s annual water quality report lists hardness, and a softener or filter can help if scale bothers you.
New homeowners often notice water differences in the first week, especially if they moved from another region. Hardness comes from calcium and magnesium dissolved in the water. It is not a health concern, but it builds scale in water heaters, tankless units, faucet cartridges and dishwashers, and it leaves spots on glass and fixtures.
Both Loudoun Water and the Town of Leesburg publish annual water quality reports that list hardness and other measures. Homes on private wells in western Loudoun can vary much more and should be tested directly.
If scale is a nuisance, options range from cleaning aerators and shower heads with vinegar, to flushing the water heater once a year, to a whole-house softener. Tankless water heaters in particular benefit from regular descaling. A brief change in taste or a chlorine smell is normal with public water. Brown, black or cloudy water that does not clear, or a rotten egg smell from hot water only, points to a water heater or plumbing issue worth checking.
Our article on softening hard water at home compares softeners and filters for local homes.
Quick answer: Most builders hold a walk-through before closing and accept a list of items during the first year. Write down plumbing issues with dates and photos, report them in writing and keep copies. Know what your purchase contract says your builder will cover.
Buyers of newly built homes in Loudoun County usually have a pre-closing walk-through and then a period, often around a year, when they can send the builder a list of items to correct. What that coverage includes, and for how long, depends on your purchase contract, so read it closely.
Plumbing items worth putting on that list include leaks at fixtures or under sinks, toilets that rock or run, slow drains that come back after cleaning, sewer smell from a rough-in, a missing expansion tank, a water heater with no pan in a finished space, a sump pump that does not discharge well, pipe noise and hose bibs that leak inside the wall.
Document each item. Take a photo or short video, note the date and keep a running list. Send items in writing through the builder’s preferred channel. If a leak is active, shut off the fixture or the main, limit damage and contact the builder promptly, but do not leave water running while you wait.
Some homeowners like an independent plumber to look over the system before the end of the builder’s coverage period. An outside set of eyes can spot items you would not know to report. If a repair cannot wait for the builder’s schedule, keep records of what was done and why.
Quick answer: Resale homes can hide aging water heaters, old supply lines, stuck shutoffs, do-it-yourself repairs, slow sewer lines and past leaks that were painted over. The first months in the house are a good time to find them on your schedule rather than theirs.
Buying a home that someone else has lived in brings a different set of first-year issues. Many show up only when a new household uses the plumbing in its own way, with more showers, more laundry or a different daily routine.
Older homes in downtown Leesburg and western villages have their own concerns. Our article on plumbing in historic houses covers galvanized, cast iron and other older materials, and our article on everyday Leesburg plumbing problems covers the issues that show up in most homes.
Quick answer: Sort the plumbing items in your inspection report into three groups: safety or active leaks to fix first, items that cause damage if ignored, and items to plan for. Have a plumber confirm the first two groups and price them.
Most home inspection reports include several plumbing notes, and many buyers close without addressing all of them. Once you own the home, that report becomes a useful to-do list.
Group one is anything involving safety or active water: a relief valve with no discharge pipe, gas smells near a water heater, active leaks, sewage odors or backups and missing shutoffs. Handle these first.
Group two is anything likely to cause damage over time: slow drains, a running toilet, corrosion on fittings, a water heater near the end of its life, high water pressure or a sump pump that struggles. These can usually wait a few weeks but should not wait a season.
Group three is improvements and planning items: fixtures nearing replacement, a recommendation for a sewer camera inspection, adding an expansion tank or a softener, or upgrading old supply lines. These can be scheduled around your budget.
Inspectors are generalists and often write “recommend evaluation by a licensed plumber.” A plumber can confirm whether the item is real, explain how urgent it is and give you a scope and price. Our article on plumbing and resale value explains which repairs tend to matter later if you sell.
Quick answer: A sewer camera inspection shows the inside of the line from your house to the public sewer. It is worth doing in resale homes with mature trees or older lines, and in new homes with repeated slow drains. As an educational range, it often runs about $200 to $500. These are general planning figures, not quotes.
The building sewer, sometimes called the lateral, carries everything from your drains to the public main. Problems in that line, such as roots, sags, cracks, offset joints or construction debris, cause slow drains and backups that cleaning only delays.
A camera inspection runs a small waterproof camera through a cleanout and records the line. It shows the material, the condition of the joints and the location of any problem. In a resale home with large trees in the yard, an older clay or cast iron line or a history of backups, it can be one of the most useful things to do in the first months.
In the Town of Leesburg and in Loudoun Water service areas, the homeowner is generally responsible for the lateral from the house to the property line or the connection, and the utility handles the main. The town’s page on sewer backups and water leaks explains who to call first during a backup. Our sewer lateral repair and responsibility article covers repair options and costs.
Quick answer: Many homes west of Leesburg, around Purcellville, Hamilton, Round Hill, Lovettsville and Waterford, have private wells and septic systems. New owners should learn where the well, pressure tank and septic tank are, test the water and plan septic pumping.
Moving to a rural property in western Loudoun adds equipment that town homes do not have. A private well has a pump in the well, a pressure tank in the house and a pressure switch that turns the pump on and off. Many have a filter or treatment system as well.
Learn the pressure tank location and the normal pressure range, often around 40 to 60 psi. A pump that clicks on and off every few seconds while a faucet runs may point to a waterlogged tank. Test the water soon after move-in for bacteria and common minerals, and plan regular testing after that.
The septic system includes a tank and a drain field. Find the tank lid locations, ask the previous owner or the county for records and plan pumping on a regular schedule based on household size. Avoid putting grease, wipes and harsh chemicals down drains, and keep vehicles and heavy equipment off the drain field.
Plumbing inside the house works much the same as in town, but slow drains in a septic home may be a sign of a full tank or a field issue rather than a simple clog.
Quick answer: Most move-in plumbing fixes are small service calls in the low hundreds. Larger items such as a water heater, a sewer repair or a basement bathroom cost more. The table below gives educational ranges. These are general planning figures, not quotes.
| Item | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Toilet repair or reset with new seal | $150 to $400 |
| Faucet or supply line leak repair | $150 to $450 |
| Fixture shutoff valve replacement | $150 to $350 each |
| Single drain clearing | $150 to $450 |
| Main line clearing | $250 to $700 |
| Sewer camera inspection | $200 to $500 |
| Pressure reducing valve replacement | $350 to $900 |
| Thermal expansion tank | $250 to $600 |
| Frost-free hose bib replacement | $200 to $500 |
| Recirculation pump | $500 to $1,500 |
| Sump pump replacement | $500 to $1,500 |
| Tank water heater replacement | $1,500 to $4,000 |
These are general planning figures, not quotes. Real prices depend on access, materials, the condition of nearby pipes and whether walls or ceilings have to be opened. Our 2026 plumbing price article for Leesburg has more detail on common repairs.
Quick answer: Homeowners can safely clean aerators, fill dry traps, replace a toilet flapper, swap appliance hoses, test a sump pump and set the water heater dial. Leave gas connections, valve replacements, work inside walls and sewer issues to a plumber.
Plenty of move-in fixes are easy and inexpensive. Cleaning faucet aerators and shower head screens, pouring water into floor drains, adjusting a toilet chain or float, replacing a flapper, tightening a trap slip nut by hand, swapping rubber washer hoses for braided ones and testing the sump pump are all reasonable for most homeowners.
Some jobs carry more risk. Replacing shutoff valves or soldering pipe can cause a flood if a fitting fails. Gas connections at water heaters, ranges and dryers involve safety risks. Electrical water heater elements require the power off and some care. Anything inside a wall, below a slab or in the sewer line is better handled by someone with the right tools.
A good rule is to stop if a repair needs the main water shut off for more than a short time, involves gas or electricity, or requires cutting into drywall. Our article comparing DIY, handyman and plumber repairs covers where that line usually falls, and our article on minor fixes around the house lists common small jobs.
Quick answer: Adding a bathroom, moving fixtures, replacing a water heater or adding a wet bar in Loudoun County usually needs a permit. Simple like-for-like repairs often do not. Check before you start.
Many new homeowners plan projects in the first year or two, such as finishing a basement, adding a laundry sink or upgrading a kitchen. Plumbing permits in Loudoun County are handled by the county’s building permits office, and homes inside the Town of Leesburg also follow town rules for some work.
Virginia uses a statewide building code, with plumbing rules based on national model codes. The Virginia Department of Housing and Community Development publishes the current code editions. Permits bring inspections at the rough stage and at final, which protects you and future buyers.
When you hire someone for permitted work, confirm who pulls the permit and schedules inspections. Virginia contractors can be checked through the DPOR license lookup. Our checklist for hiring a local plumber lists other questions worth asking.
Quick answer: Before the first winter, disconnect hoses, insulate exposed pipes in garages and crawlspaces and know your shutoff. Before the first summer, check the sump pump, outdoor faucets and irrigation, and watch for higher water bills.
Each season tests a different part of a new home. The first winter is when pipes in garages, bonus rooms over garages, exterior walls and crawlspaces meet real cold. Insulate any exposed pipe, seal gaps where cold air reaches pipes, keep the heat on when traveling and open cabinet doors on exterior walls during deep cold.
Spring brings the first test of outdoor faucets after winter and heavy rain that tests the sump pump and grading. Open each hose bib and check inside for drips. Watch the basement after storms.
Summer brings irrigation and higher water use. A lawn irrigation system installed by the builder should have a backflow preventer, and it needs to be winterized each fall. A sudden jump in your water bill in summer can come from irrigation leaks or a running toilet. Our article on scheduling repairs by season suggests when to plan bigger projects.
Quick answer: Keep one folder or digital note with shutoff locations, the water heater model and date, the PRV and sump pump details, fixture brands, inspection notes, builder correspondence and every repair receipt.
A plumbing file pays off for years. When something goes wrong, you can tell a plumber the water heater model, the age of the sump pump and what was fixed last time. When you sell, it shows buyers the home was cared for.
Include photos of the main shutoff, water heater label, PRV, sump pit and any basement rough-ins. Add the brand and model of each faucet and toilet so replacement parts are easy to find. Keep the home inspection report, the builder’s closing documents and every repair invoice. Note dates for water heater flushes, septic pumping and well tests.
Photos of open walls during any remodel are also worth keeping, since they show where pipes run once the drywall is back.
Quick answer: Call at any time of day for a burst pipe, water coming through a ceiling, a sewer backup, a leaking water heater, a gas smell near an appliance or a main shutoff that will not close. Smaller issues can usually wait for a scheduled visit.
Some move-in problems cannot wait. Water spreading across a floor, a ceiling stain that is growing or dripping, sewage coming up in a basement drain, a water heater leaking from the tank or a relief valve that will not stop discharging all need prompt help. So does any smell of gas near a water heater or appliance; leave the house and call the gas utility first.
Shut off the main water if you can, turn off power to an electric water heater that is leaking and move valuables out of the way. Then call. Stoney’s Plumbing answers calls 24/7 at (703) 794-5592. Our Leesburg after-hours plumbing page and our urgent plumbing problems article explain what to do while you wait.
Slow drains, a toilet that runs, a small drip under a sink, hot water that takes a while and pipe noise can usually be scheduled. Keep a towel or bowl under a drip and shut off the fixture stop if needed.
Quick answer: Typical first-year situations include a basement that smells like sewer, a toilet that runs at night, a dripping relief valve, a hose bib that splits in the first freeze and a slow tub drain full of grout.
A family moves into a new home in Brambleton and notices a sewer smell in the unfinished basement. The floor drain trap is dry and the bathroom rough-in has a loose test cap. Filling the trap and sealing the cap solves it the same afternoon.
An Ashburn townhome owner hears a toilet refill every hour or so overnight. Pressure reads above 90 psi at the hose bib. The PRV is adjusted, the fill valve is cleaned of debris and the toilet goes quiet.
A Leesburg homeowner finds water in the pan under a new water heater every few days. The home has a PRV but no expansion tank. An expansion tank is added and the relief valve stops discharging.
A couple in Aldie leaves a hose attached over a January cold snap. In March, water runs down the inside of the basement wall when they open the outdoor faucet. The split sillcock is replaced and the hose is stored for the next winter.
A South Riding buyer finds the second-floor tub draining slowly from the first week. The trap holds a lump of hardened grout from the tile work. The trap is cleared and the item is added to the builder list with photos.
Quick answer: For new home plumbing issues in Leesburg and across Loudoun County, Stoney’s Plumbing is a local call. Stoney’s Plumbing is a veteran-owned residential plumber at 574 Rockbridge Dr SE, Leesburg, VA 20175, available 24/7. Call (703) 794-5592.
We help Leesburg and Loudoun County homeowners settle into new and newly purchased homes, from first-week checks and toilet and drain fixes to water heater setup, pressure problems and leak repairs. We explain how our pricing works, give you the scope and price before repair work begins, and tell you plainly when something can wait.
Visit Stoney’s Plumbing online or open Stoney’s Plumbing in Google Maps. Address: 574 Rockbridge Dr SE, Leesburg, VA 20175. For urgent problems, see 24/7 emergency plumbing in Leesburg, with local after-hours pages for Ashburn after-hours plumbing help, Sterling after-hours plumbing help, Purcellville after-hours plumbing help, Loudoun County after-hours plumbing help. We also help nearby homeowners: Ashburn plumbing help, Sterling plumbing help, Purcellville plumbing help, Loudoun County plumbing help, Lansdowne and River Creek plumbing help, Aldie and South Riding plumbing help, Hamilton and Round Hill plumbing help.
Running toilets, slow drains from construction debris, low flow from clogged aerators, high water pressure, small leaks under sinks, water heater settings and dry traps that let sewer smell in are the most common first-year issues.
Usually a dry trap in a floor drain or an unused shower, or a loose cap on a basement bathroom rough-in. Pour water into each drain and check the caps. If the smell stays, a vent or seal may need checking.
Street pressure in some Loudoun County neighborhoods is high. A pressure reducing valve near the main shutoff lowers it. If the valve is set high or not working, pressure can climb above 80 psi.
Debris from construction often collects in the faucet aerator. Unscrew the tip of the spout, rinse the screen and reinstall it. Pull-down faucets may also have a screen under the sink.
The water level may be set too high, the flapper may not seal, the chain may be tangled or debris may be in the fill valve. High water pressure can also cause a toilet to refill on its own.
Around 120 degrees Fahrenheit is a common setting that balances comfort, energy use and scald risk. Check the dial or display soon after move-in, since factory settings vary.
If your home has a pressure reducing valve or a check valve at the meter, an expansion tank helps absorb pressure from heated water. Without one, the relief valve may drip.
Leaks, toilets that rock or run, recurring slow drains, sewer smell from rough-ins, a missing expansion tank or drain pan, a weak sump discharge, pipe noise and hose bibs that leak inside the wall. Document each with photos and dates.
It is worth it for resale homes with mature trees, older pipe or past backups, and for new homes with recurring slow drains. As an educational range, it often runs about $200 to $500. These are general planning figures, not quotes.
Disconnect every hose before the first hard freeze. Frost-free faucets drain themselves only when no hose is attached. In older homes, close the interior shutoff and drain the line.
Generally yes. Adding a bathroom or moving fixtures usually requires a plumbing permit and inspections through Loudoun County, and some Town of Leesburg rules may also apply.
In larger homes the distance from the water heater is the usual reason. A recirculation pump, a point-of-use heater or a better-placed heater can shorten the wait.
Find the main shutoff, check the water heater age, replace old plastic or rubber supply lines, test each fixture stop, look for painted-over ceiling stains and consider a sewer camera inspection.
Yes. Stoney’s Plumbing answers calls 24/7 at (703) 794-5592. A burst pipe, a sewer backup, a leaking water heater or a shutoff that will not close is worth a call at night or on weekends.
Stoney’s Plumbing is located at 574 Rockbridge Dr SE, Leesburg, VA 20175. We are a veteran-owned residential plumber helping homeowners in Leesburg, Loudoun County and Northern Virginia. Call (703) 794-5592.
From running toilets to high water pressure, call Stoney’s Plumbing at (703) 794-5592. We are a veteran-owned local plumber in Leesburg, available 24/7, and we give you the scope and price before work begins.
574 Rockbridge Dr SE, Leesburg, VA 20175 · Serving Leesburg, Loudoun County & Northern Virginia
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